There are many issues that can affect your tomato plants. This list includes several common tomato plant diseases and disorders, plus natural treatments for them.
Check over the symptoms carefully, since some plant diseases may look similar, particularly in the early stages. If you’ve had any problems like these in the past, be sure to pin or bookmark this article for future reference.
Use this guide to identify and treat these 25 tomato diseases and disorders naturally.
1. Leaf Curl
Mature plants will have their leaves curl from the outside to the center.
Environmental stress is the most common cause of tomato leaf curl. Things like high temperatures, too much water, over-pruning, a lack of water, or damage to roots.
Thankfully, it doesn’t affect the taste of the fruits. You can avoid it by making sure your soil drains well.
Additionally, avoid the temptation to over-prune. Give adequate water and position tomato plants in full sun as well.
Curling tomato leaves may also come about because of a viral infection transmitted through whiteflies. For this reason, try to eliminate whiteflies from your garden.
2. Septoria Leaf Spot
Septoria leaf spot is caused by a particular fungus. It characterizes circular spots that turn brown with gray centers before drying.
A severe infection will cause serious losses. Over time, the leaves will turn yellow and eventually dry out and fall off. A decline in leaves will also weaken the plant, causing it to grow slowly.
Removing infected plant parts is vital. Also, practice crop rotation and reduce overhead watering.
For fungicides, consider investing in an organic tomato plant fungus treatment such as Cueva or MilStop to help stop the spreading of it.
3. Leaf Mold
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Leaf mold shows up as yellow spots on the upper side of leaves. Also, underneath these spots are purple or olive-green patches of mold.
Infected leaves will turn yellow and fall off. Wind can spread the mold, and high humidity and temperatures encourage mold growth. Infections can be severe in greenhouses, and the fungus can also affect blossoms, fruits, and stems.
Consider rotating crops with other vegetables. Other home remedies for tomato fungus include staking and pruning plants for better air circulation. Also, avoid wetting the leaves.
BioSafe is also an excellent preventive and curative organic fungicide against leaf mold fungus on tomato plants and other tomato leaf diseases.
4. Anthracnose
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Anthracnose tomato fruit disease is an easy one to spot. You will find dark, sunken spots that will be mushy. If you cut open the fruit, the area under the spot will look rotten.
It spreads by overhead watering, which splashes the fungus from infected soil or other plants onto your tomato plants.
You can prevent it by using water that drips onto the roots. Also, harvest early since it doesn’t affect tomatoes early in the ripening process.
Additionally, plant your garden in a sunny area and keep it weed-free. Cage or stake plants to improve air circulation.
Furthermore, BioSafe is a tomato disease control spray that works as a preventative and curative treatment against anthracnose.
5. Fusarium Wilt
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With the Fusarium wilt disease of tomatoes, your plant will start to wilt and turn yellow.
It might only affect half of the plant at first. However, it will quickly spread to the whole plant and cause it to be unproductive.
It is best prevented by crop rotation. You can also use a natural tomato wilt disease treatment such as Mycostop.
6. Verticillium Wilt
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Verticillium wilt attacks the root and prevents the flow of nutrients and water up to the leaves.
Older leaves on plants infected with the disease will turn yellow at the leaf margins before turning brown. These tomato fungi develop rapidly in cool weather.
However, it isn’t easy to deal with. The most effective options are crop rotation, getting rid of infected crops, and keeping the garden weed-free.
7. Early Blight
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Early blight of tomatoes is characterized by circular to angulated dark brown spots on the leaves. To prevent it, avoid wetting the leaves. Warm, wet weather increases the chances of infection and spreads it faster.
This tomato leaf problem is caused by a fungus. Therefore, if you’ve had similar issues with your tomatoes or related plants like potatoes or peppers, you can have them again.
Crop rotation, pruning, Cueva, and drip irrigation can help deal with this disease.
You can also make a homemade tomato blight spray. For the recipe, combine one teaspoon of baking soda, one teaspoon of liquid soap, and a quart of warm water. Spray the solution on the affected plants.
8. Late Blight
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The late blight of tomatoes is characterized by dark lesions that appear water-soaked on the leaves and eventually turn powdery white. That’s usually one of the first signs.
Additionally, fruit lesions are large, greenish-brown patches with a greasy appearance. It tends to appear during cool, wet weather and can affect any part of the plant.
Using drip irrigation on crops can help. Also, try crop rotation.
If the late tomato blight disease is widespread, employ an organic fungicide such as Cueva or BONIDE. These are among the best treatments for the problem.
9. Mosaic Virus
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With the tomato mosaic virus, you will notice dappled leaves with yellowing, and new growth will be twisty or malformed. Fruits may also appear unevenly ripe.
Insects, such as aphids, can spread it. Unfortunately, there is no cure available.
To effectively control the spread, destroy plants as soon as the tomato mosaic virus appears. Also, be sure to wash your hands thoroughly after touching an infected plant and sterilize any equipment.
10. Blossom Drop
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Blossom drop is fairly self-explanatory: blossoms will grow on your plant but will drop off before maturing.
Temperature fluctuations, too little water, insect damage, improper nitrogen levels, or a lack of pollination can cause it.
You can’t change the weather, but you can have your soil tested and water properly. Also, plant plants that attract pollinators to your garden, and avoid using too much or too little nitrogen fertilizer.
11. Blossom End Rot
Your plant will look healthy, but the fruits will have a dark patch on the end of the fruit that widens and deepens over time. This is a sign of a calcium deficiency in your plants.
Get a soil test kit at your local garden store. If calcium is low, one method is to add crushed eggshells to your compost.
Check with your local organic gardening center for advice. Also, be sure to water evenly and apply organic fertilizer or compost regularly throughout the growing season.
Read more on how to stop blossom end rot naturally.
12. Damping Off
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Damping off is a soil-borne fungal disease that weakens or kills seeds and seedlings.
The stem base generally looks cut off or pinched. Seedlings will also wilt and collapse soon after emerging from the soil.
To help prevent it, plant seeds when soil temperatures are ideal. Also, pre-soak them to help speed up germination.
If you’re using a potting mix, be sure to use sterile potting soil that has undergone heat processing. Also, ensure your soil dries out between waterings, and avoid starting seeds in soil that is rich in nitrogen.
13. Sunscald
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Plants affected by sunscald will look healthy, and fruit will develop normally. However, as the fruit ripens, yellow or white patches appear, giving it an unpleasant look. Later, mold may grow in the white spots and cause rotting.
Exposure to the direct rays of the sun during hot weather causes sunscald.
The best thing to do is avoid overpruning. Also, consider using a cage over stakes since they tend to provide more sun protection.
Water on the plants and fruit magnifying the sun can also cause damage. Leave plenty of foliage to protect your fruit.
14. Bacterial Speck
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You can find bacterial speck in many parts of the plant. Affected areas will have small black or brown necrotic spots surrounded by a yellow border.
There is no cure for the disease; however, drip systems are a good solution to prevent many tomato plant diseases.
An organic copper fungicide such as Cueva may also be applied at the first sign of symptoms.
15. Bacterial Spot
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The bacterial spot appears as dark, water-soaked spots that eventually turn black and drop out, leaving holes in the leaves. Also, black specks become scab-like spots on the fruit.
Good sanitation, crop rotation, and careful transplanting can help prevent infection. Organic treatments such as Regalia and Procidic can also provide some control.
16. Bacterial Canker
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Bacterial canker is easily detected by leaves that wilt and die, drying while still attached to the stem.
The leaves and stem may also have dark patches with sunken veins. Additionally, the fruits will have yellow dots as they ripen.
Prevention involves crop rotation and keeping the garden weed-free. Also, remove infected plants immediately and don’t compost them since that can spread the infection.
17. Spotted Wilt Virus
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Leaves will show yellow speckling, and growing tips may die. Besides, the fruits may look malformed, with green, red, and yellow spots and blotches.
The tomato spotted wilt virus is caused by thrips. Check new plants carefully and practice good pest control to help get rid of thrips.
Elimination of infected plants is also effective in controlling it. Clean cultivation is very important as well.
18. Fruit Crack
Fruit crack is exactly what it says: a crack appearing in the fruit.
It is caused by rapid changes in moisture levels. For example, getting heavy rains or excessive watering after a dry spell. The tomatoes will take up too much water and eventually crack.
The best solution is to keep up with watering, especially during droughts, so they don’t go into shock with rainwater. However, this generally isn’t too much to worry about.
The fruits are still edible as long as you cut off the cracked areas.
19. Catfacing
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Catfacing results in deformed-looking fruits. The exact cause is unknown; however, the condition mostly occurs in cool weather. Pruning and high nitrogen levels can also lead to the disorder.
To help prevent this condition, monitor temperature levels, avoid excess pruning, and cut down on high-nitrogen fertilizers.
20. Powdery Mildew
White spots on tomato leaves represent powdery mildew. It can also be characterized by yellow spots covered with gray powder on the surface of the spots.
The leaves will die but typically stay attached to the stem. Also, humidity coupled with dry conditions makes it worse.
There are sprays that can treat powdery mildew naturally. Other organic options include BioSafe or BANISH.
21. Pith Necrosis
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Pith necrosis is caused by the bacterium Pseudomonas corrugata [1].
It might not always be visible externally. However, it causes the pith of the stem to turn brown and eventually die. This leaves hollow spaces that can cause collapse.
This is more common in greenhouses. But you can also find it in field-grown tomatoes and other areas where conditions are humid.
The best treatment is to avoid humidity and planting during cool, wet weather. Also, excessive nitrogen can make it worse, so employ balanced fertilization.
Plants can recover if conditions improve.
22. Buckeye Rot
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Buckeye rot of tomatoes is caused by a fungus that leaves a brown or green stain-like spot that resembles a buckeye. It can also affect relatives like peppers and eggplant.
Avoid soil contact with the fruit to help prevent infection, avoid overwatering, and ensure your soil drains well. Also, rotate crops or consider raised beds or container gardening.
23. Southern Blight
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Southern blight is seen as a white fungus growing near the soil line.
Plant leaves will also show signs of yellowing and wilting. Besides, fruits will look water-soaked and start to rot.
To prevent or stop this disease, keep up a good crop rotation. You should also remove infected plant debris.
Applying a high-quality, cold-pressed neem oil treatment such as Rango can also help control it.
24. Root-knot Nematodes
Root-knot Nematodes are microscopic, worm-like organisms that live in the soil. They attack plant roots.
You will know there is a problem when plants start showing signs of wilting, yellowing, and stunting. Additionally, you will also notice galls or knots on the roots.
Either relocate the garden to an area that is free of nematodes or add parasitic nematodes to help decrease occurrences. You can also try home remedies to get rid of root-knot nematodes.
25. Gray Leaf Spot
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Gray leaf spot in tomatoes is caused by the fungus Stemphylium solani [2].
You’ll see small brownish-dark specks. These later grow into larger necrotic areas that crack open, leaving a shot-hole-type appearance. In addition, a grayish-brown color will appear as the spots get larger.
Spots may also have a yellow halo. Plus, severe infections can cause leaf drop, yellowing, and defoliation.
The fungus can survive on weeds in the same family, so keep up on weeding. Additionally, CEASE can help suppress gray leaf spots and other tomato leaf ailments.
Takeaway
When dealing with diseases in tomato plants, please note that not all color changes may be due to plant diseases. You have to examine carefully for patterns and color combinations.
For example, yellowing leaves may be caused by a magnesium deficiency. With this, the leaves would become yellow and wilt before falling. The deficiency of magnesium can be resolved by using Epsom salt on your plants.
Advice from your local organic gardening center can be very helpful as well. Also, good sanitation of your tools and hands can help prevent disease spread, as can crop rotation.
Lastly, be sure not to compost infected plants or plant parts so you don’t spread anything further.
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