Dre Campbell Farm
Companion Plants for Tomatoes: Good and Bad Neighbors

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Companion Plants for Tomatoes: Good and Bad Neighbors

Nothing says the height of the growing season quite like the sight of tomatoes ripening on the vine. Luckily, they are pretty easy to plant and thrive well with other helpful companions.

Even a novice gardener can produce a bumper crop in the first year. That isn’t to say there aren’t a multitude of pests and diseases that can decimate a harvest.

You can improve your chances of avoiding these problems by including companion plants to grow with your tomatoes from the outset [1]. These will not only deter pests and disease but also improve fruit health and flavor.

What to Plant With Tomatoes

When companion planting with tomatoes, there are some good neighbors to include. Below is a small list of herbs, vegetables, and flowers that grows well with tomatoes.

  • Amaranth
  • Asparagus
  • Basil
  • Borage
  • Carrots
  • Celery
  • Beans
  • Chives
  • Cleome
  • Cosmos
  • Peppers
  • Cucumber
  • Dill (early only)
  • Garlic
  • Lemon Balm
  • Lettuce
  • Marigolds [2]
  • Mint
  • Nasturtium
  • Onion
  • Parsley
  • Peas
  • Sage
  • Spinach
  • Stinging Nettle
  • Sow Thistle
  • Squash

What NOT to Plant With Tomatoes

Just as how there are good companions, some can be bad.

While some might only stunt plant growth, some increase chances of blight, so it’s wise to keep certain plants well away.

Here’s what you should avoid putting next to tomato plants.

  • Broccoli
  • Brussels Sprouts
  • Cabbage
  • Collards
  • Cauliflower
  • Corn
  • Eggplant
  • Fennel
  • Kale
  • Kohlrabi
  • Potatoes
  • Rutabaga
  • Turnip
  • Sunflowers

How to Grow Tomatoes

Warmer climates have a longer growing season, so tomatoes can be grown from seedlings and then transplanted after the danger of frost is passed.

Growing in more northern climates often means buying seedlings to transplant.

They need full sun in cooler climates and afternoon shade in warmer areas. They also need well-drained soil.

Make sure the area you’ve selected has room for them (spaced 2-3 feet apart), as well as their companions.

Once you’ve found a suitable spot, pretreat the soil with compost or aged manure several weeks before planting.

Plant seedlings deep, up to or beyond their first leaves. If needed, they can be laid on their side and gently bent upright, then covered with soil.

Set cages or stakes – adding them later could damage the roots. Also, water plants well right away to help the roots adjust to their new home.

Care and Maintenance

The plants need a lot of water all season long.

Try to water in the morning so they can survive hot days but don’t go into the evening with excessive moisture, as this can cause mold and disease.

After five weeks in their new growing space, add some mulch to your plants to help them stay moist, and minimize weeds. For example, you can use grass clippings, straw, peat moss, dried leaves, etc.

Additionally, make sure the plants have the support they need by using string to tie them to their stakes or even cages.

Trim the bottom leaves. Too close of contact to the ground increases the risk of disease either by contact or splash from watering.

Pests and Diseases

Protecting your plants from unwanted garden pests and crop-killing diseases means keeping a close eye on them.

Check them constantly for signs of infestation, but keep in mind that not all insects are bad. Some insects like ladybugs and dragonflies you should try to keep close because they feed on harmful critters.

Some of the bad insects to watch out for are aphids, cutworms, hornworms, spider mites, and slugs.

Don’t panic if you see a few of these. If you see a leaf with an abundance of pests, don’t be afraid to pluck it off and throw it away.

However, if the bugs get out of control, consider using some organic insecticidal soap or other natural pest control methods.

Diseases are a little harder to deal with, and there are so many of them you’d be pressed to learn half the names. Blight (early and late) and mold from too much moisture are more common problems.

One common sign of mold is visible white patches on the leaves, while blight will show brown spots on the stems and branches.

However, an organic fungicide can help control the problem, but it’s easier to stop pests and diseases before they ever have a chance to take hold. Furthermore, this is where good neighbors for tomatoes can be most useful.


When harvest time arrives, don’t pick them too soon. They will ripen much better on the vine than they would if harvested too early.

Also, pick only red, firm fruits. However, don’t store them in the refrigerator as this will make them lose their perfect flavor and texture.

If your growing season ends before they ripen, pull the entire plant out of the ground with the fruit attached and hang somewhere cool indoors.

Where to Buy Seeds

When it’s time to go from planning your garden to starting your tomato plants, you’ll want to find quality seeds.

Often, you can find local farm stores or retail chains that sell seeds, or you can use a reputable online store, like SeedsNow.com, Arbico-Organics.com, or SeedsForGenerations.com.


Planning for potential tomato growing problems before you plant will increase your chances of success. Start with healthy, prepared soil – even for seedlings.

Once in the ground, water consistently and mulch to keep them healthy. Moreover, plant helpful neighbors around your tomatoes to keep them strong and pest-free.

Sasha Brown

Blogger and lover of all things natural.

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