Dre Campbell Farm
Cucumber Companion Plants and Those to Avoid Planting Near

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Cucumber Companion Plants and Those to Avoid Planting Near

One of the best additions to any garden and one of the easiest to grow is cucumbers. However, it’s a good idea to determine ahead of time where you will plant them so you can also designate space for their companions.

Cucumbers love sun and heat, so as long as the danger of frost is passed and the soil and days are toasty, get those seeds going.

Companion planting can increase productivity and protect against crop-killing pests and diseases [1].

Likewise, you’ll want to keep bad cucumber neighbors well away. These are ones that can take too much moisture for themselves or hog the nutrients they need to thrive.

What to Plant With Cucumbers?

Here’s a list of the best companion plants for cucumbers. Some of these keep pests away, some enrich the soil, enhance flavor, and others provide shade.

  • Wheat (increases yield)
  • Beets
  • Broccoli
  • Cabbage
  • Carrots
  • Cauliflower
  • Corn (controls wilt and provides shade)
  • Dill (improves flavor)
  • Kohlrabi
  • Kale
  • Lettuce
  • Nasturtiums (pest control)
  • Marigold (pest control)
  • Peas
  • Beans
  • Radishes (pest control)
  • Onions
  • Oregano (pest control and flavor)
  • Sunflowers
  • Tansy (pest control)
  • Tomatoes

What Not to Plant Near Cucumbers

Just as some plants are helpful, others can bring harm to your crop.

Other vining plants, like melons and squash, will compete for space and nutrients, and neither will be strong.

Below are bad neighbors for cucumbers.

  • Melons (shared nutritional needs)
  • Potatoes (will blight them)
  • Sage (attract pests)
  • Squash (shared pests and nutritional needs)

Growing Cucumbers

Just as they are used in multiple ways – they come in a variety of types, including pickling, slicing, burpless, and white.

They grow in two forms: bush and vining.

The vining variety can grow up the side of a fence or a trellis. Moreover, vinings are great space savers versus the bush type, and climbers keep fruit and leaves away from the wet ground.

On the other hand, bush cucumbers work well for container planting and smaller gardens.

Both kinds have a short growing period – usually around six weeks and the warmer their home, the better they grow.

1. Soil Preparation

Prepare the soil in advance by mixing compost or aged manure to a depth of 6-8 inches.

If the soil is too dense and doesn’t drain well, you can add peat with the compost or manure.

2. Planting

Sometimes it’s a good idea to start the seeds inside if you live in a cooler climate.

Give the seedlings about three weeks in a consistently warm space. This gives them a healthy start and helps ensure the danger of frost and cooler nighttime temperatures are over.

Note that the roots are easily damaged, so handle them gently.

If you’re planting from seeds, drop your seeds (2-3) about 1 inch into the ground, leave the recommended space, and plant more seeds.

Plant the vined variety about 6 inches to 1 foot apart. In addition, cucumber bushes should be 2-3 feet apart.

If you’re worried the ground might not be warm enough, you can use black plastic around your plants to retain heat.

In very warm climates, you should see growth from seeds in just a few days. Cooler climates will have a longer germination period.

After four weeks, mulch around the plants to help retain moisture and keep pests away. You can use straw, grass clippings, or any organic mulch.

3. Care and Maintenance

More than anything, this vegetable needs lots of sun and consistent watering.

A good baseline amount is 1 inch per week with increased watering in higher temperatures.

Water in the morning or early afternoon. Drip irrigation or soaker hose methods work best. Wet foliage can lead to leaf diseases.

When your plants begin to grow fruit, increase watering to 1 gallon every week per root.

Set trellises early and guide the plants to take hold of the trellis or fence.

If you planted seeds, you might need to thin the seedlings so they aren’t competing for water and nutrients.

4. Pests and Diseases

Anything you plant in your garden can be susceptible to various pests and diseases.

Cucumber beetles wreak the most havoc on young plants and can transmit disease. Other pests include spider mites, whiteflies, and aphids.

Sometimes it’s not pests that ruin your crop, but disease. Even though you’re constantly watering and caring for your plants, you might start seeing spotted or wilting leaves.

Diseases can be viral, bacterial, or fungal. Sometimes can overwinter in the soil from past garden debris, be passed from crop to crop through the air, via pests, or by water.

Diseased plants can sometimes be treated with natural fungicides, but often the only option is the removal of them before they can infect others.

Usually, the best treatment is prevention, and this is where growing among other beneficial plants is most helpful.

5. Harvesting

They are ready to pick when they are firm and about 6-8 inches long, or 3-5 inches for pickling.

Picking them before they get too ripe signals the plant to continue producing. Also, morning is the best time to pick – before the sun hits the plants.

Where to Buy Seeds

Part of growing healthy cucumber plants is starting with quality seeds.

While you could purchase seeds from a local farm store, buying online from a reputable online retailer like Seeds Now or Seeds for Generations is fast and convenient.


By planning out your organic garden in advance, making sure to leave room for other helpful crops, you’re sure to have a successful growing season.

You’ll possibly end up with a bigger harvest and a variety of other vegetables than you know what to do with.

Fortunately, most people love this vegetable, so what you don’t pickle you can pass on to the neighbors!

Sasha Brown

Blogger and lover of all things natural.

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